【北京燕莎中心凯宾斯基饭店 花样罗马餐厅主厨】
（*本文为中英双语 Bilingual in CN and EN）
作为名厨上线大师专访的第二弹，我们有意选择了一位西餐师傅——Francesco，对比蒋应荣，虽然两人国籍不同、菜系有别、初心不一，但在成为名厨的路上有一点却是共通的——持续酝酿、发酵直至幻化出整个美食世界的匠心，以及难能可贵的坚持。而在采访Francesco结束时，我们还剩最后一个问题：你会转行吗？显然，答案已经很明确，再问，就显得我们傻了。
当孩子还是孩子时，不知道自己是个孩子，对一切充满情感，只有一个心灵；在撒丁岛的海风中奔跑，在自家的农场里处理圈养的鸡鸭兔鸽，在家乡的餐厅里打杂送外卖，哪怕报酬只是一个披萨或一罐可乐……童年的诱惑数不胜数，Francesco的快乐却只在厨房，对此，家人的影响功不可没。
“我受妈妈的影响很大，包括烹制意大利面等传统家常菜美食。祖父擅长处理肉类，如慢煮、入味等，而父亲的拿手菜是鱼……”但谁没见过妈妈做菜呢，事实是，并非每个人都会因此踏上从厨之路。而在当时的意大利，厨师也不是一个可以优先考虑的职业，至少算不得光鲜，身为医生的父亲，自然高兴不到哪儿去。
青春，总会在荷尔蒙对抗父权的拉锯战中出现转机。Francesco学业上的“成就”骗过了父亲，至少，后来，父亲心里是这样打问号的：一个聪明的学霸，不至于笨到想做厨师吧？
笨，其实跟是不是厨师没半毛关系，一如世界上只有好演员没有笨演员，有时，它也意味着一只先飞的鸟。虽然父亲拒绝了Francesco的梦想，但他依然准备好了行李，在暑假的掩护下“飞”到意大利北部，投靠了在医院工作的姐姐，并找到一家餐厅，从披萨助手做起，开启了自己的职业生涯。
在意大利学厨，除了去正规烹饪学校，也会像中国一样，直接找名师学艺。“我是直接进入厨房学习的，26岁那年，在Peachieta Del Garda的L'Osteria餐厅，Rugero Zamboni收我为徒，将绝学悉心传授，一年半后，我便出师了……”
坐落于阿尔卑斯山南麓的加尔达湖，是意大利番茄栽培的北限，波河流域的帕达纳平原，则是数一数二的肉牛、乳牛产地。这个巨大的湖泊造成了意大利南北饮食文化的差异，南部多用番茄、橄榄油，北部多用乳酪、鲜奶，湖泊周围的餐厅也得天独厚，成为南北融合创新的集中营。Francesco就在加尔达湖的餐厅工作过，这个善于分裂又能将自己掰回来的白羊座，一旦遇到合适的机会，就能找到自己的创新之路，其菜品风格自然而巧妙地融合了南北意大利的独特风味。
在护照被戳上China字样的那刻起，Francesco将自己的美味菜肴带到了中国。中国也给了他新奇的生活，粤式炒饭、川菜、鲁菜、小龙虾……当然，还有湖南妹子的太太，以及她带给Francesco的创新灵感——比如花椒的新鲜叶子——煎炸后就会成为一种奇妙的调料。
一道菜品被创新出来之前，它在哪里？在Francesco看来，它在遥远的故乡，也可能出现在床上的梦里。对于常人，数绵羊与做梦前后为继，对于诗人，做梦与拔草共写姻缘，而对于厨师，做梦与做菜则往往互为因果：
“2015年参加第四届百味来Pasta世界锦标赛的作品撒丁岛意面，就是根据梦境还原出来的，100%纯粗粒麦粉制作的像虫子一样的面，只在我的家乡才有，普通且平淡，但加入特调酱汁、茴香等香料还有肉肠丸子等配料后，便出现独特的化学反应……”
当然，日有所思，夜未必有所梦。但无论怎样，你对食物好，食物自然也不会忘掉你。火腿、松露，卡纳罗利米320克，洋葱切碎，黄油、高汤、白葡萄酒，刀法温柔，火候刚好……Francesco做的夏季黑松露看起来就很快乐，一副吃了便不必补充维他命的样子。而在两个月前，事实是这样的，Francesco将黑松露改切片为磨末，让浓香融入意米，然后，食物就像被他催眠了一样俯首称臣，尽情释放美味。
厨师是餐厅的灵魂，是美食的导演。“中国很多年轻厨师不太踏实，可能是因为有些天赋异禀的人，不太容易在这个行业释放天赋。我也发现，中国女厨师具有烹饪天赋的有很多，我团队中就有几位，她们在食材和口味的处理上不逊于男士，在摆盘上甚至更有感觉……”
而这个自称情绪会影响口感的意大利“导演”，对着镜头总是表情夸张，回到后厨又神情严肃，回答问题一本正经，偶尔傻笑，似乎在说，等等，等等，让我回忆一下……
1981年，意大利罗马的“大事件”——总理莫罗被刺。1982年，撒丁岛卡利亚里，一个10岁小男孩的“大事件”，是一道意大利面。为此，他预谋了好几个星期，并祈祷父母外出只剩自己的日子赶快到来。当这一天来临时，他找来一口大锅，装满水，放入1公斤面条，搭配番茄酱，“料理”了一道14人份的意大利面。
当孩子还是孩子时，不知道自己是个孩子，没有成见，没有习惯，不知道红色旅，也从不在相机面前摆样子……时间倒推3年，Francesco七岁，那一年，他的理想是——
“做一名好厨师。”
Francesco@餐饮IP
05.中餐创新
西餐标准化程度较高，某种程度上更难创新。但中餐写意，烹饪手法多元，创新的余地和舞台应该更大。不过，食客享用中餐自由随意，缺少仪式化，因而对厨师和菜品的要求缺少意识，这也是中餐创新后劲不足的原因之一。
04.厨师品质
有天赋和强大的内心。因为在每个人欢聚的时候，你是提供美食的人，但在牺牲过程中也会有很多成就感。还有自信，当别人评价你的菜品不好时，要凭借它来化解。
03.后厨
寂寞为王。做厨师这一行，可以让你很快乐，但同时也会让你失去一些东西。这并不是一个简单的工作，你要在内心好好地问自己，这——这——这，是否是你想要的。
02.美食与故乡
传统食物还是需要坚持。比如提拉米苏，每个餐厅的味道都不一样，但在我看来，小时候吃到的祖母做的提拉米苏就是最正宗的，我要把这种对自己来说正宗的童年味道带给大家。意大利有很多烹饪方法是很传统的，要继承这种传统，中国烹饪也是这样。
01.徒弟
现在的中国很像上世纪80年代的意大利，很多年轻厨师因为兴趣而走上烹饪的道路，这是令人欣喜的现象。但兴趣归兴趣，如果要把它当职业，我对他说的第一句话，将是：Are you sure？如果他离开，我对他说的另一句话，将是：Good luck！
In second round of on-line master chefs interview, we chose on purpose a Western chef–Francesco.Despite of different nationality, cuisine and original intention, Francesco is incommon with Jiang Yingrong in the way they becoming chefs–brewing ideas, nurturing ambitions and practice with perseverance. At the end of the interview, we asked him whether he ever thought of a career change. He smiled. Obviously, the answer is very clear.
When children are in their early days without much sense of childhood or adoulthood, they are passionate with everything heartfully. Running against the sea breeze in Sardinia, dealing with chickens, rabbits and ducks on their own farm, delivering food for restaurant at hometown even for a payment of a piece of pizza or a cup of cola ...there are numerous temptation of childhood, but Francesco's happiness can only be found in kitchen.
“I'm influenced a lot by my mother, even in cooking pasta and other traditional dishes. My grandfather is good at meat dishes, such as slow-cooking and making food asty etc., while my father's specialty is fish…” Few people have not seen their mother cooking, but the truth is that not everyone will therefore be inspiredto become a chef. In Italy at the time, being a chef is not a preferred ordecent occupation. His father who was a doctor was unhappy at his choice.
Although his father was against Francesco's dream, he was ready to set out for Northern Italy with the opportunity of summer holiday. Seeking refuge with her sister who worked at hospital, he found a restaurant and started his career from being Pizza assistant. “When I was 26 years old, at Peachieta Del Garda's L'Osteria restaurant, Rugero Zamboni took me as a disciple, and within a year and a halfmy tuition was complete…”
Lake Garda, locatedat southern foot of the Alps, is the northern cultivation limit for Italian tomato, Pa Dana plains of the Po valley is one of the best beef cattle anddairy cattle origins. This huge lake results in the differences between the food culture of northern Italy and southern Itably.Tomato and olive oil aremore used in southern Italy, while cheese and fresh milk are more used innorthern Italy. Restaurants around the lake have become rather kind of food labs, where the two food styles were integrated with innovation. Francesco used to work at one of the Lake Garda restaurants before. Being a daring Aries with empathy, once coming across the right opportunity, he will come up with his ownway of innovation, creating a natural and delicate style of blending the unique food styles of northern Italy and southern Italy.
Right after getting his passport stamped with allowance of access to China, Francesco introduced his wonderful meal to China. China also has brought change to his life through Cantonese fried rice, Sichuan food, Shandong food, crayfish…Also he met his wife here, a Hunan girl who brought him innovation inspiration like turning fresh leaf of Sichuan pepper into a special sea soning by frying.
Where do the inspirations of a dish come from? In Francesco's opinion, they may come from the distant hometowns, or from the dreams in bedrooms. Counting sheep links to dream to the ordinaries, and dream links with writing with to poets, but to chef, dreams often brings inspiration for cooking.
“The Sardinian pasta which I cooked at the 4th Barilla World Championship in 2015 was inspired by my dream. The pasta made of 100% pure coarse wheat flour that looks like worms can only be found at my home town. It's quite common and plain, yet after adding a special sauce, fenneland other spices, as well as sausages and meat balls etc, it creates a unique flavor.”
Arranging and presenting the food, Chef is the soul of a restaurant. He said, “In China,there are many young chefs who are not down-to-earth enough. This may be due to lacking opportunities for the talents to realize their talents in this industry. I also find that there are many talented female chefs in China, for example there are a few in my team. They deal with food in a way that is as well as male chefs do, and they even got more feeling when presenting the food.”Seemingly exaggerative in front of camera, Francesco said that emotion will influence on the tastes of food. Yet when he backed to the kitchen, he was quite serious when answering questions. Occasionally, he giggled, then often kept saying, “wait, let me refresh my memory…”
In 1981, the big event to Italy is that Prime Minister Moreau was stabbed. In 1982, the big event to a 10-year-old boy is a dish of pasta. The boy had planned for week, spraying for his parents not being at home and leaving him alone. He got a big pot and filled it with water, then added 1kg spaghetti and made tomato sauce. He prepared 14 servings of pasta. When a child was young, he didn't realize that he was a child, without preconception and habits, without knowing RedBrigades or posing before cameras…If time went back by another 3 years, when Francesco was 7 years old, he set his ideal to be a good chef.
Francesco's Great Idea
05.Innovation in Chinese cuisine
Compare with Western cooking which is more difficult to innovate with certain degree of standardization, Chinese food has more space for innovation with its variety of cooking style and its traditional abstract philosophy. However, enjoying Chinese food is often too casual and lacks a sense of ritual, thus having fewer requirements for chefs and food, which is one of the reasons of slower improvement in terms of innovation for Chinese food.
04. Qualities of chefs
We honor chef for their talents and inner strength. When people get together, you are the one who provide delicious food. The process of contributing will bring fulfillment and confidence, which you will rely on to restore to yourself when people criticize your food.
03. Kitchen
Don't forget, you will have a life long company named "Mr.loneliness". Being a chef can make you happy, but will make you lose something. This is not a simple job. Deep inside, you should ask yourself whether this is what you want.
02.Food and hometown
We should keep the traditional food, for example tiramisu, which every restaurant has its own taste. But to me, the tiramisu made by my grandma has the most decent flavor. I want to bring this decent flavor to guests. There are many traditional cooking methods in Italy, and we should inherit these traditions, so does the Chinese cooking aswell.
01. Apprentice
At present, China is really like Italy in 80s,as many young chefs are interested in cooking and start their chef careers. This is encouraging. But when a person is interested in cooking and intends take it as occupation, the first question I will ask is: are you sure?If he leaves, I will wish him “Good luck!”
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